Ear infections are one of the most common — and most preventable — grooming-related health issues in dogs. For the Siberian, ear anatomy and coat type interact: long, heavy ear leather and dense semi-long, triple-layer, extremely dense, water-resistant feathering create a warm, moist environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. The Siberian's triple-layer coat blows twice a year — in spring and autumn — releasing enormous quantities of undercoat over several weeks; during these periods, daily brushing with a deshedding rake and metal comb is non-negotiable to prevent severe matting. Left untreated, ear infections cause pain, head shaking that can rupture blood vessels in the ear flap (aural hematoma), and chronic scarring that narrows the canal permanently.
Healthy Siberian ears need cleaning every 1–2 weeks as part of routine maintenance — not daily, which strips protective wax and irritates the canal. Increase frequency to weekly during swimming season, after baths, or if your dog has a history of ear issues. Breeds with hair growing inside the ear canal, common in semi-long, triple-layer, extremely dense, water-resistant coats, may need professional ear plucking every every 4-6 weeks (daily during coat blow) to keep the canal open — ask your groomer whether plucking or trimming is appropriate for your Siberian. Never clean ears that look red, swollen, or smell strongly yeasty — those symptoms mean infection, and cleaning can push debris deeper. See your vet first.
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Use only a veterinarian-approved ear cleaner — never hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or water alone, all of which irritate the sensitive canal lining. Fill the ear canal with cleaner until you see it pool at the opening, massage the base of the ear for 20–30 seconds (you'll hear a squelching sound — that's correct), then let your Siberian shake their head vigorously. This shaking is essential — it brings dissolved wax and debris to the outer ear where you can wipe it away with cotton gauze or a soft cloth. Never insert cotton swabs into the canal; they push debris inward and can rupture the eardrum. Lift and hold the ear flap upright while cleaning to straighten the canal on the Siberian's heavy ears. Finish by drying the outer ear thoroughly; moisture left in the fold is a common infection trigger.
Know the difference between dirty ears and infected ears. Dirty ears have visible brown wax at the opening but no odor, redness, or behavioral change. Infected ears smell distinctly yeasty or foul, show redness or swelling inside the canal, produce dark discharge, and cause your Siberian to scratch persistently, shake their head, or tilt it to one side. Any head tilt lasting more than a day, balance problems, or crying when the ear is touched requires same-day veterinary attention. Chronic infections in floppy-eared breeds often trace back to inconsistent cleaning or incomplete drying after water exposure — both are entirely preventable with a consistent routine.
For the Siberian's semi-long, triple-layer, extremely dense, water-resistant, hair inside and around the ear opening needs regular attention. Trim or pluck excess hair from the ear canal opening to improve airflow — your groomer can demonstrate the correct technique during your next every 4-6 weeks (daily during coat blow) appointment. After every bath, place a cotton ball loosely in each ear during rinsing to prevent water entry, and remove it immediately after — never leave cotton in the ear. Use a stainless steel deshedding rake to penetrate the dense undercoat layers, then follow with a wide-toothed comb to check for any missed tangles. A light dusting of ear powder before plucking (if your groomer recommends plucking) gives grip and reduces discomfort.
The Siberian's triple-layer coat blows twice a year — in spring and autumn — releasing enormous quantities of undercoat over several weeks; during these periods, daily brushing with a deshedding rake and metal comb is non-negotiable to prevent severe matting.
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The gold standard for poodles and doodles. Features long pins that penetrate deep into dense coats to remove tangles and fluff the hair.

Used by professional groomers worldwide. Made of high-quality Italian stainless steel with a heavy-duty spring for clean, sharp cuts.

The ultimate tool for double-coated breeds. Strips dead undercoat without damaging the guard hairs.