
Ear infections are one of the most common — and most preventable — grooming-related health issues in dogs. For the Pekingese, ear anatomy and coat type interact: long, heavy ear leather and dense long, coarse, standoff double coat with distinctive mane feathering create a warm, moist environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. The Pekingese mane forms the tightest mats behind the ears, along the collar line, and in the armpits — inspect these areas daily and never attempt to brush through a visible mat without first applying a detangling spray and working through it with a wide-tooth comb. Left untreated, ear infections cause pain, head shaking that can rupture blood vessels in the ear flap (aural hematoma), and chronic scarring that narrows the canal permanently.
Healthy Pekingese ears need cleaning every 1–2 weeks as part of routine maintenance — not daily, which strips protective wax and irritates the canal. Increase frequency to weekly during swimming season, after baths, or if your dog has a history of ear issues. Breeds with hair growing inside the ear canal, common in long, coarse, standoff double coat with distinctive mane coats, may need professional ear plucking every every 3-4 weeks to keep the canal open — ask your groomer whether plucking or trimming is appropriate for your Pekingese. Never clean ears that look red, swollen, or smell strongly yeasty — those symptoms mean infection, and cleaning can push debris deeper. See your vet first.
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Use only a veterinarian-approved ear cleaner — never hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or water alone, all of which irritate the sensitive canal lining. Fill the ear canal with cleaner until you see it pool at the opening, massage the base of the ear for 20–30 seconds (you'll hear a squelching sound — that's correct), then let your Pekingese shake their head vigorously. This shaking is essential — it brings dissolved wax and debris to the outer ear where you can wipe it away with cotton gauze or a soft cloth. Never insert cotton swabs into the canal; they push debris inward and can rupture the eardrum. Lift and hold the ear flap upright while cleaning to straighten the canal on the Pekingese's heavy ears. Finish by drying the outer ear thoroughly; moisture left in the fold is a common infection trigger.
Know the difference between dirty ears and infected ears. Dirty ears have visible brown wax at the opening but no odor, redness, or behavioral change. Infected ears smell distinctly yeasty or foul, show redness or swelling inside the canal, produce dark discharge, and cause your Pekingese to scratch persistently, shake their head, or tilt it to one side. Given the Pekingese's "Professional Recommended" grooming needs, ear problems can develop quietly under dense coat — make ear checks a non-negotiable part of every grooming session. Chronic infections in floppy-eared breeds often trace back to inconsistent cleaning or incomplete drying after water exposure — both are entirely preventable with a consistent routine.
For the Pekingese's long, coarse, standoff double coat with distinctive mane, hair inside and around the ear opening needs regular attention. Trim or pluck excess hair from the ear canal opening to improve airflow — your groomer can demonstrate the correct technique during your next every 3-4 weeks appointment. After every bath, place a cotton ball loosely in each ear during rinsing to prevent water entry, and remove it immediately after — never leave cotton in the ear. The Peke's flat face creates skin folds around the nose and under the eyes; clean these folds daily with a dry cloth and check for redness, discharge, or odor that signals an infection. A light dusting of ear powder before plucking (if your groomer recommends plucking) gives grip and reduces discomfort.
The Pekingese mane forms the tightest mats behind the ears, along the collar line, and in the armpits — inspect these areas daily and never attempt to brush through a visible mat without first applying a detangling spray and working through it with a wide-tooth comb.
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Used by professional groomers worldwide. Made of high-quality Italian stainless steel with a heavy-duty spring for clean, sharp cuts.

The ultimate tool for double-coated breeds. Strips dead undercoat without damaging the guard hairs.

The professional-grade deshedding tool that reaches deep beneath the long topcoat to safely remove loose undercoat without cutting or damaging the guard hairs. Reduces shedding up to 90% with regular use. Essential for heavy seasonal shedders like Collies, Golden Retrievers, and Maine Coons.