
Ear infections are one of the most common — and most preventable — grooming-related health issues in dogs. For the Newfoundland, ear anatomy and coat type interact: long, heavy ear leather and dense long, oily, water-resistant double coat feathering create a warm, moist environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. Brush the feathering on the legs, tail, and ears daily if possible; these areas mat fastest due to friction and moisture from the dog's size and activity. Left untreated, ear infections cause pain, head shaking that can rupture blood vessels in the ear flap (aural hematoma), and chronic scarring that narrows the canal permanently.
Healthy Newfoundland ears need cleaning every 1–2 weeks as part of routine maintenance — not daily, which strips protective wax and irritates the canal. Increase frequency to weekly during swimming season, after baths, or if your dog has a history of ear issues. Breeds with hair growing inside the ear canal, common in long, oily, water-resistant double coat coats, may need professional ear plucking every every 6-8 weeks to keep the canal open — ask your groomer whether plucking or trimming is appropriate for your Newfoundland. Never clean ears that look red, swollen, or smell strongly yeasty — those symptoms mean infection, and cleaning can push debris deeper. See your vet first.
Coat-matched picks — buy once, use every groom.

Used by professional groomers worldwide. Made of high-quality Italian stainless steel with a heavy-duty spring for clean, sharp cuts.

The ultimate tool for double-coated breeds. Strips dead undercoat without damaging the guard hairs.
Use only a veterinarian-approved ear cleaner — never hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or water alone, all of which irritate the sensitive canal lining. Fill the ear canal with cleaner until you see it pool at the opening, massage the base of the ear for 20–30 seconds (you'll hear a squelching sound — that's correct), then let your Newfoundland shake their head vigorously. This shaking is essential — it brings dissolved wax and debris to the outer ear where you can wipe it away with cotton gauze or a soft cloth. Never insert cotton swabs into the canal; they push debris inward and can rupture the eardrum. Lift and hold the ear flap upright while cleaning to straighten the canal on the Newfoundland's heavy ears. Finish by drying the outer ear thoroughly; moisture left in the fold is a common infection trigger.
Know the difference between dirty ears and infected ears. Dirty ears have visible brown wax at the opening but no odor, redness, or behavioral change. Infected ears smell distinctly yeasty or foul, show redness or swelling inside the canal, produce dark discharge, and cause your Newfoundland to scratch persistently, shake their head, or tilt it to one side. Any head tilt lasting more than a day, balance problems, or crying when the ear is touched requires same-day veterinary attention. Chronic infections in floppy-eared breeds often trace back to inconsistent cleaning or incomplete drying after water exposure — both are entirely preventable with a consistent routine.
For the Newfoundland's long, oily, water-resistant double coat, hair inside and around the ear opening needs regular attention. Trim or pluck excess hair from the ear canal opening to improve airflow — your groomer can demonstrate the correct technique during your next every 6-8 weeks appointment. After every bath, place a cotton ball loosely in each ear during rinsing to prevent water entry, and remove it immediately after — never leave cotton in the ear. A large-breed dog takes a very long time to dry thoroughly — use a professional-grade high-velocity dryer and ensure the dense undercoat is completely dry before the session ends. Damp undercoat leads to skin infections and a musty smell within hours. A light dusting of ear powder before plucking (if your groomer recommends plucking) gives grip and reduces discomfort.
The oily Newfoundland coat requires a degreasing shampoo — standard dog shampoos do not fully clean the coat and leave a waxy, odorous residue. Follow with a heavy conditioner to restore softness.
Certified Master Groomer
With over 15 years of competitive grooming experience, Sarah ensures every guide on Groomas meets the highest professional standards.

Used by professional groomers worldwide. Made of high-quality Italian stainless steel with a heavy-duty spring for clean, sharp cuts.

The ultimate tool for double-coated breeds. Strips dead undercoat without damaging the guard hairs.

The professional-grade deshedding tool that reaches deep beneath the long topcoat to safely remove loose undercoat without cutting or damaging the guard hairs. Reduces shedding up to 90% with regular use. Essential for heavy seasonal shedders like Collies, Golden Retrievers, and Maine Coons.